At least they got caught, but as the police knew these guys since a long time it is a question if this means the area is any safer right now… Especially as everybody in Peru now knows how much value some Biketravellers are carrying. Just skip it, don’t endanger yourself.

On January 3 we passed through Cerro Azul along the Panamerican south of Lima (roughly at kilometer mark 140ish). But at Cerro Azul they are widening the panamerican to a four lane divided highway. The new section is mostly completed but not as of yet open to traffic. We stopped and asked a construction worker if we could pass through on the new road and he said that would be fine. About 5 kilometers down the new pista three kids on a moto attempted to rob us with rocks and broken glass. They went past us turned around and came back and knocked my companion’s bicycle over. We know a fair amount of Spanish and immediately were all over the kids yelling at them and threatening back and so they all fled.

We were lucky because they were not properly prepared to rob us well. It was a more half-hearted attempt. A passerbyer on a bike just laughed at us when we asked him for help.

Moral of the story, people are watching this road because it is mostly empty. This appeared to be an opportunistic attempt by some kids who thought the gringos would be pushovers. The area does suffer from higher rates of petty crime due to hardships caused by the earthquake in 2007. The road will likely be plenty safe once open, but until then if you are planning on riding this new section be extra cautious.

Thanks for your comment, much appreciated. Yes, it is very sad that Paijan is know internationally as a dangerous black hole for cyclists (and other tourists). It would be great if you could alert the authorities, not just of Paijan but of the entire province.

The authorities have been turning a blind eye for too long. They do not seem to realize that the robbers (and the police know who they are!) do not just steal from cyclists and tourists, but from the Peruvian people.
The widely publicized stories of robberies have not just prevented all cyclists from visiting (and thus spending money in) the area, but many more tourists are avoiding Peru in total.

When there apparently is no law enforcement in Paijan, then it is normal for them to assume that probably Machu Picchu, Lima, lake Titicaca, Arequipa, the Jungle and other tourist attractions will be (even more) dangerous as well, so it is safer and easier to visit Bolivia or Ecuador instead.

And no, simply supplying a police escort through town is not a solution, especially when the police already knows the robbers.
For every robbery taking place (or just the current threat of it), Paijan and Peru are missing out on many, many thousands of tourist dollars and taxes, so in the end the robbers and lazy police force are stealing from their fellow citizens.

Please keep me informed about the progress, hopefully some day Paijan will be a safe place to travel through. Thanks in advance.

Harry
http://BikeTravellers.com

I found your comments by doing a search on my town Paijan, I feel embarrassed for the bad experiences you have had in my town. I’ll bring this to the authority’s attention so they can became aware of this issue and hope can provide safety to you and the residents. Very sorry.

I agree, I don’t see the point in puttng yourslef in danger and supporting the idiot criminals in Paijan. Note that not only cyclist avoid the place,also other travellers (and many Peruvians) do.

Of course it should not be this way, but getting robbed is not a good way to fight the system (and it will give ant-cyclist people stuff to moan about)..

Cheers, Harry

Hello folks,

My Paijan experience: Just thought I’d give a quick update on my experiences in Paijan.

My plan was to camp 10 kms before the town in the desert, get up at 4.30 in the morning and cross while everyone was still asleep.

Unfortunately due to the wind (has anyone else had headwinds that are beyond ridiculous heading south in Peru? – I’ve spent 4 days going 11 kph average) I only managed to get to 25km’s before Paijan and in the end even though I tried riding in the dark I had to give up.

I got up at 4.30 was on the road for 5 and was out the other side of Paijan by 6.30

The town was mostly dead although a few moto-taxis around and there was one guy who looked suspicious but the whole place was generally pretty quiet so I got through no problems, and even then when I got out the other side even though I didn’t ask for an escort the police followed me for the next 20 km’s anyway.

So in short my plan of getting in and out before the town wakes up worked, although I think I was aided by the fact the police followed me for so long because at 6.30 on a Sunday morning there was nothing else for them to do.

I’m not sure I’d want to do it again, and I’m posting this more because that despite the fact I wouldn’t recommend doing it this way I know there’s people out there as stubborn as me who will try to ride through Paijan anyway – so if anyone out there is going to try and go through Paijan in the morning my advice is:

– The town starts at km630 – before is desert and it shouldn’t be too difficult to dissapear off the side of the road and camp about 10km before. Get up early.

– Whilst it was still pretty dead the town was beginning to wake up – so if trying this way I’d say you want to be out the other side by 6 at the latest (first light is at 5.30 but it’s a big shoulder and cycling before this is possible)

– If still uncomfortable, with it being so quiet the police were more than willing to escort for aslong as possible.

Finally, if you want to read something truly demoralising, having secured my bike (locked all panniers to the bike, lashed front panniers to frame, wallet etc secured in zip pockets) I got safely through Paijan, was at the market opposite Luchos in Trujillo asking for directions, a 14 year old kid shoved his hands in my pockets, grabbed my digital camera and ran off and I lost it – so having taken all those precautions my camera was snatched in Trujillo.

But that’s just me moaning – just wanted to post my Paijan experience. I wouldn’t recommend going, but I know there’s people out there who’ll still go so wanted to offer my advice.